Maison Jaune Blog

Do you remember that feeling of nervousness standing at the top of a blue run? 

Maybe you are still there, getting a little afraid before each run. 
Or maybe you can’t now remember ever being afraid of a blue piste…  

Anyway, I felt like a beginner all over again today.  I felt that nervous energy before each run..  I couldn’t stop myself from wondering if this will be the run where I fall over, or make a fool of myself… 

Yes, today was the day I first tried telemark skiing….

Telemarking is very different from normal alpine skiing in that your heel is not locked down….  Instead your feet are hinged at the toe with the ski.   Here is where it really helps to have good balance!!!!

Lots of fun….and a really lovely day up at Plaine Joux…  an absolute scorcher though… we saw three massive avalanches from the rock cliffs behind the ski area.  It does that when the weather gets really warm!

Just had my first paragliding flight of the year today…  Unquestionably, paragliding is one of THE most spectacular things you can experience in Chamonix.   Even now, after 10 years of paragliding here in the valley, I still get butterflies in my stomach before take-off!!  Every time!

There is nothing to beat the feeling of floating around the sky, catching the rising bubbles of warm air to stay aloft, looking down the mountains and the town far below….

High above Chamonix

Although only 45 minutes long, my flight was most enjoyable….  The thermals tight and punchy.  I soon climbed back up above take-off, and flew down the ridge…

Looking down on the town

 For a 20 minute tandem paragliding flight from Plan Praz, it costs about 100 euros.  Not cheap – but definitely worth it!  You can learn more about paragliding in Chamonix.

Chamonix valley has lots of paths and trails that are very popular with walkers and hikers in the summer.

But when the snow is here, these are completely inaccessible as you normally sink in, up to your waist!!

However, with the benefit of snowshoes, and a guide, you can experience the joys of the French Alps in Winter without having to go near a ski piste. Perfect for those a bit apprehensive about going on a ski holiday, or those fancying a little break from skiing and trying something new.

Helen breaking trail

We joined Chamonix snowshoeing guide, Phil Jarratt, for a day’s snow-shoeing to experience exactly what snowshoeing is like firsthand…

Phil picked us up from the chalet, and drove us to nearby Coupeau to try snowshoeing for a first time. Quickly leaving the road and entering the pine forest, we ascended through the snow-covered pines, and entered a world of tranquility. 

Tête Rousse mountain refuge through the pine trees

As the path zig-zagged up through the forest, Phil was pointing out aspects of the history of one of the little hamlets we passed, identifying various animal tracks in the fresh powder snow.  Apparently fox tracks are easily identifiable from dogs because of the pattern of the claws!!  Allegedly, he is an expert on animal poo too!

Looking down on Les Houches

Though the mist was hanging around, we saw some wonderful views of the Massif du Mont-Blanc – could easily see the Tête Rousse hut on the other side of the valley…  Finally we emerged from the tree line on the Aiguillette des Houches and made our way across to the Chalets des Chailloux – two tiny mazots used in summer time for minding the cows.

Open fields of fresh snow on the Aiguillette

All in all, a thoroughly enjoyable day – fantastic views, excellent guide, good exercise and great fun!

Definitely recommend it!!

Mont-Blanc du Tacul and Glacier des Bossons

We’ve just finished producing a short video showing some of the skiing down the Vallée Blanche with a group of guests that stayed here in January…. Special thanks to Dave, Vanessa, Paul, Mark and Alan.

We skied the Classique route down the glacier with James, our guide – all 22 kms off-piste to arrive back in Chamonix town.

A great day’s skiing had by all!! It might take a few moments to load….

Read about the vallée blanche.

Having received approximately two foot of fresh powder here in Chamonix valley in the last couple of days, yesterday we chose to stick around Les Houches and make the most of it.  When it is still snowing, and the visibility is poor,  Les Houches really comes into its own with its tree-lined runs.

We made fresh tracks all over.  Discovering new off-piste routes down the back near the La Cha piste, then skiing down through the trees near Bellevue…   One truly lovely aspect of Les Houches is that the ski area is not steep enough to avalanche – even off-piste.  So, it is a fantastic place to learn how to ski powder snow and off-piste.

Every now and then, there comes a ski day which stands out WAY more than all the others. For me, it typically it involves vast quantities of powder snow….

I remember approximately two years back, skiing down one of the faces of the Brevent ski area in Chamonix in waist-deep powder. We did that run three times that day, and not a single set of our tracks crossed.  Amazing.

Well, yesterday, Helen, myself and a couple of friends skipped through to Courmayeur. It is a small ski town, the other side of the Mont Blanc tunnel from Chamonix. A mere 30 minutes drive away.

We soon found ourselves at the top of the Arp lift – the very top of the mountain where there are no ski pistes at all… facing a huge off-piste descent back to Courmayeur town. Sadly, the visibility was not so great, but with the lift behind us closing for lunch, our avalanche transceivers bleeping, we set off…

After a seriously steep entry down a powder-covered icy slope – great practice for jump turns! – we soon found ourselves the only skiers left on the mountain, and emerged into the most amazing valley.  Waist-deep powder that stretched on for miles!  I have never experienced powder this consistently good.

[ed note:] it might have transformed into boiler plate by now – the mere location does not necessarily guarantee great powder!

Simply WOW!

Off-piste in powder in Courmayeur

A bit further on, the valley opened up and we found ourselves tracking down through pine trees – following narrow paths through the trees – yet still the snow was simply incredible – soft, easy to ski.   The path weaved past summer chalets with a metre of snow covering their roofs.   Down gullies with huge (soft!) moguls, dodging the over-laiden snow-covered branches of pine trees hanging in our way…

Yes - the route drops down through the gap in the trees

The photos truly don’t do justice to this route…  (taken by iphone rather than my usual camera)

… An hour and a half later, we emerged from the forest straight into Courmayeur village.   Legs tired.   Adrenaline pumping.   Ecstatic!

(shortly followed by a quick tele-cabin ride straight up to the Maison Vieille – one of the best restaurants on the mountain for pasta and bombardinos!)